Bathroom Lighting Buying Guide
November 28, 2008
Proper interior bathroom lighting provides comfortable, adequate, un-shadowed light. There are several styles of bathroom lighting, and proper placement of your lighting is important for best results.
Styles of Bathroom Lighting
Bath and Vanity (also called a bath bar) has two or more bulbs and is installed over the mirror and sink. The number of bulbs you will require depends on the length of your mirror.
Adding Sconces to the sides of a mirror can help even out the light on your face and eliminate shadows during activities such as makeup application and shaving. In addition, sconces add a decorative touch to help complete your overall bathroom design.
Ceiling Lighting is used in addition to the lighting around the mirror. Ceiling lighting helps to illuminate the rest of the bathroom and can be used in the center of the room or in alcoves to improve overall conformability and safety.
Lighting Placement
The purpose of mirror lighting is to surround your face with light. A Bath and Vanity fixture is intended to cast light downward, while the sconces are intended to illuminate from the sides. The bath and vanity fixture should be about the same width as your mirror. When hanging the fixture, take into consideration the relative heights of your family and install the lighting at about average forehead height. An average height in most homes is about 66” from the finished floor. The mirror should be hung 1-5” below the bottom of the fixture. The sconces should be equal height on either side of the mirror and positioned to fill in the sides of your face with light.
Most bathrooms will also require at least one ceiling fixture to properly illuminate the remaining area of the bathroom. If your bathroom has additional alcoves you may want to consider adding small fixtures in those areas for even overall lighting.
Matching your lighting and plumbing fixtures
Consider the finish of your bath faucets when purchasing your new light fixtures. Most manufacturers offer a variety of finishes to match bathroom faucets, lighting and accessories for a cohesive overall design.
Everything You Need To Know About Plumbing Courses
October 26, 2008
James Copper asked:
Plumbing courses are available at trade schools all over the UK and other parts of the globe. They are also available online as well. Plumbing is in high demand and commands high wages. Plumbing courses can be your path to financial and career success.
Plumbing is one of the most respected and most specialized set of Skills in the building and construction services trades. Plumbers are essential and wear many hats. Plumbing courses teach them how to help make water run smoothly, keep toilets flushing correctly, wastewater correctly treated and pipes staying secure without leaks.
Plumbers can install or repair water heaters, fix frozen or burst or leaking pipes. Of course, plumbing courses will teach would-be plumbing specialists to install pipes and other fixtures in new homes under construction as well.
There are many parts of a new home the repair and servicing of which can only be accomplished by a properly trained and licensed plumber.
Online plumbing courses can pave the way, at times and places convenient to the student, for a lucrative and satisfying career in the plumbing trade.
One online school that we perused offered plumbing courses whose exams were all open book and open notes. The students learned their plumbing courses at their own pace and were able to graduate in as few as six months. Graduation after completing all the requisite plumbing courses provides the students with a diploma with national accreditation.
No prerequisites or related experience is required to enroll in this trade school. At that is needed to learn the plumbing trade, besides satisfactory passing of all plumbing courses, is the ability to use simple trade tools, satisfaction from a job working with your hands and the motivation to get out there and market yourself.
Plumbing courses at this school include soldering copper pipes, plumbing basics such as installation and leak repairs, faucet basics, valve repair and water supply systems.
Plumbing technology 101, the first course, outlines the basic of the plumbing trade. The goal of this first course is to teach students the basics of the trade or to familiarize homeowners with some do-it-yourself techniques.
Many of the issues addressed in this first of the plumbing courses are those that will come up nearly every day in a plumbers work life. These include the system that supplies a residential or commercial building with water, soldering, vents and drains, installation of plumbing related fixtures and repair of the same.
The specifics of the course include a look at basic plumbing safety tips and familiarization with the jargon and basic terms of the plumbing trade. Soldering is an important part of this plumbing course too.
After this lesson each student should be able to select the appropriate soldering materials, clean the metals to get them ready for soldering, prepare the joint and solder a tubing connection the proper and safe way.
Water service is part of this basic course materials and training. Students learn the layout of a home or commercial basement, the ins and outs of selecting the right materials and the proper location of the required equipment.
Students learn to install a drain, as well as a ventilation and waste system. They also learn about installing fixtures in these online plumbing courses.
Contractor Listings in LA
Plumbing courses are available at trade schools all over the UK and other parts of the globe. They are also available online as well. Plumbing is in high demand and commands high wages. Plumbing courses can be your path to financial and career success.
Plumbing is one of the most respected and most specialized set of Skills in the building and construction services trades. Plumbers are essential and wear many hats. Plumbing courses teach them how to help make water run smoothly, keep toilets flushing correctly, wastewater correctly treated and pipes staying secure without leaks.
Plumbers can install or repair water heaters, fix frozen or burst or leaking pipes. Of course, plumbing courses will teach would-be plumbing specialists to install pipes and other fixtures in new homes under construction as well.
There are many parts of a new home the repair and servicing of which can only be accomplished by a properly trained and licensed plumber.
Online plumbing courses can pave the way, at times and places convenient to the student, for a lucrative and satisfying career in the plumbing trade.
One online school that we perused offered plumbing courses whose exams were all open book and open notes. The students learned their plumbing courses at their own pace and were able to graduate in as few as six months. Graduation after completing all the requisite plumbing courses provides the students with a diploma with national accreditation.
No prerequisites or related experience is required to enroll in this trade school. At that is needed to learn the plumbing trade, besides satisfactory passing of all plumbing courses, is the ability to use simple trade tools, satisfaction from a job working with your hands and the motivation to get out there and market yourself.
Plumbing courses at this school include soldering copper pipes, plumbing basics such as installation and leak repairs, faucet basics, valve repair and water supply systems.
Plumbing technology 101, the first course, outlines the basic of the plumbing trade. The goal of this first course is to teach students the basics of the trade or to familiarize homeowners with some do-it-yourself techniques.
Many of the issues addressed in this first of the plumbing courses are those that will come up nearly every day in a plumbers work life. These include the system that supplies a residential or commercial building with water, soldering, vents and drains, installation of plumbing related fixtures and repair of the same.
The specifics of the course include a look at basic plumbing safety tips and familiarization with the jargon and basic terms of the plumbing trade. Soldering is an important part of this plumbing course too.
After this lesson each student should be able to select the appropriate soldering materials, clean the metals to get them ready for soldering, prepare the joint and solder a tubing connection the proper and safe way.
Water service is part of this basic course materials and training. Students learn the layout of a home or commercial basement, the ins and outs of selecting the right materials and the proper location of the required equipment.
Students learn to install a drain, as well as a ventilation and waste system. They also learn about installing fixtures in these online plumbing courses.
Contractor Listings in LA
The Terrors of the Time and Material Contract in Home Construction
October 12, 2008
Pat Fay asked:
The Terrors of the Time and Material Contract in Home Construction
There is a form of contracting prevalent in the home construction world that is very dangerous to the American homeowner. It is called the time and material contract. In construction slang it is known as “T & M.” This contract is the cause of run away costs on seemingly inexpensive home construction projects. The wise homeowner will be very, very wary of signing a time and material contract with any home construction contractor.
The basics of the time and material contract are quite simple. The contractor charges the homeowner for the actual time that all workers spend on the homeowner’s project plus all the costs of materials. The contractor’s profit is built into the hourly rate charged to the homeowner by the contractor for all of his workers. Sometimes a wily contractor will have the audacity to add a percentage as their fee or extra profit to the contract.
The T & M contract is almost always suggested by a contractor to an inexperienced homeowner. They will say that the homeowner’s job is just too complicated for a fixed price bid and the best way to do this project is by time and material. It always sounds so reasonable that the homeowner has no reason to believe that things will not go well on their project.
The time and material contract has been around for decades. It became very popular in the late 1970’s and 1980’s on industrial construction projects around the globe. The time and material contract was used on large scale industrial projects where it was thought that the teaming of the owners and the owner’s contractor would result in a win-win situation for both the contractor and the owner. The contractor would have limited risk and the owner would have a project built for about the estimated price.
The time and material contract on these industrial projects took the form of the cost plus fixed fee contract. The contractor was paid for all the hours of all their workers plus the cost of all the materials. The two were added up to give the total construction cost. Then the fixed fee percentage was multiplied times the total construction cost and then added to the whole. The typical fixed fee was in the 2% to 10% range.
Sounds reasonable doesn’t it? It wasn’t though. The catch was whether or not the owner had hired a contractor willing to take a reasonable profit on a project rather than a huge profit at the owner’s expense. It turned out that there were not too many industrial contractors that could resist the lure of easy money at the expense of the owner.
What actually happened is that the contractors used every means at their disposal to drive the hours of labor and material up as high as they possibly could so that the fee would also be higher. As it turned out the construction costs grew much higher. So high that owner’s around the world were almost bankrupted by this form of the T & M contract.
The time and material contract destroyed the work ethic in hard working construction workers by rewarding slowness and laziness. This behavior was condoned and even encouraged by the managers of the construction companies. The reason for this was because the contractor made more money the longer the project took to complete.
The T & M contract also encouraged the use of unnecessarily expensive materials in an effort to drive up the cost. When two equally qualified materials could be used for the construction the most expensive alternative would always be selected because it drove up the construction cost and thereby increased the contractor’s fee (profit).
The time and material contract has largely disappeared from the Industrial Construction world because of its terribly abusive practices and its inherent ability to destroy any construction budget. However, I am unhappy to report that it is alive and well in the home remodel and new home construction world in America today!
The American homeowner needs to stay far away from the T & M contract even if a contractor says it is the best way to work their project. In actuality it is only rarely beneficial to the homeowner but almost always extremely financially rewarding to the contractor. The time and material contract is a recipe for disaster for the typical homeowner inexperienced in home construction management.
How does this relate to the homeowner’s small remodel or new construction project? It relates very well because many contractors convince the inexperienced homeowner (in regards to construction) that it would be really difficult or near impossible to give them a fixed price for their project. They market the following kind of statement, “Your project is too complicated to give you a fixed price. However, I can promise you that if we do your project on a time and material basis your costs will be much lower.” It sounds good but the truth is actually the opposite.
This is because the underlying negative aspects of the T & M contract remain the same for the homeowner as they were on the industrial construction projects. They drive labor and material costs up as high as possible. An unfortunate student of mine found this out the hard way.
I received a phone call in early 2007 from one of my former students (from my class on how to be your own general contractor) whose project was in trouble. He had taken my class earlier when the Pat Fay Method book was not yet completed. Unfortunately his project was in trouble and he needed some help.
He wouldn’t give me any details over the phone but asked if I would come visit him at his house that was presently being remodeled. I arrived at 10 o’clock in the morning and the first thing I saw upon arriving was two framing carpenters taking a smoke break up on the scaffolding.
They were having a great time catching up with each other, laughing and carrying on. I couldn’t help but laugh to myself because it was obvious that these men were working on a time and material contract. The reason I knew this is because carpenters on a fixed price contract would have been working with a cigarette stuck in their teeth pounding away with their hammers or nail guns.
After we sat down in the owner’s kitchen I asked why he had signed a T&M contract when I had stressed in the class that it is the worst form of home construction contracting. At first he didn’t answer this question but immediately complained to me about how often they took breaks to smoke, to eat, to talk on their cell phones, and to discuss what they were doing. Some days there would be two workers and other days there would be three to four. He stated that the workers hardly spent any time working at all and that the project just barely progressed. He was so frustrated he was ready to explode.
I let him vent for awhile and when he had gotten it off his chest I repeated the question: why did you sign a T&M contract? His answer was classic. “I signed a T&M contract because the contractor told me my job was too complicated for a fixed price contract. He said that it was the best way to proceed on my project.”
It really was sad for two reasons. One, his project was a simple 960 SF addition to his two story house. One side was being pushed out 8’x 30’ and the front by 12’ x 20’. The scope of work was to add a new foundation, frame the walls, demo the existing, extend the floors, change the roof and add gutters. It also included new windows, new interior doors & walls with the standard electrical, lighting and flooring in the 960 SF remodel. That was it! There wasn’t even any plumbing as no bathroom was added and the kitchen was on the end of the house that was not being remodeled.
The second reason it was sad was because the contractor had two to four men working on the foundation and framing for SEVEN MONTHS! The foundation and framing should have taken no more than 6 weeks. To add insult to injury the framing wasn’t even complete! The contractor was completely milking the project at the homeowner’s expense.
After I read the owner’s drawings of his project, did some calculations, I estimated that this project should cost about $80 per square foot. This is less than the $100/SF that I normally tell homeowners because on this project there was no plumbing work. $80/SF x 960 SF is equal to $76,800. Add a few thousand for contingency and the project budget is $80,000.
This homeowner had already paid the contractor $135,000. He also had given the contractor a $40,000 down payment at the time the contract was signed that was not part of the $135,000. The total amount of money spent by this homeowner was $175,000! Besides the incomplete framing, the homeowner still had to pay for the installation of the roofing, windows, and all interior work. This unfortunate homeowner had already paid out twice what the project should have cost and the framing phase wasn’t even complete. The way it was going he was going to be lucky to finish up for a total cost of $230,000. That would be $150,000 more than the entire project should have cost.
Also, the amount of stress this poor homeowner was experiencing was terrible. He told me he would lay awake all night, he couldn’t eat, and he was irritable to his wife. All because he believed the following what the contractor said was the correct thing to do. In the Pat Fay Method we call that unwise. Unfortunately this scenario plays itself out all across America in every state in the country. This doesn’t just happen to a few people; this happens to hundreds of thousands of people every year throughout America!
I offered to walk outside with the homeowner and fire the contractor right then and there. I promised to stay with him until the workers had cleared their tools and themselves from the site. The homeowner declined my offer because “I can’t fire them because they still have my $40,000 down payment”.
I had taught this homeowner in my class not to pay a large down payment at the time the contract is signed. I had also stressed that no matter what to never sign a T & M contract. (The only exception to this rule is for limited demolition work but the homeowner protects themselves by building in a not to exceed maximum cost to the contract.)
Why had this homeowner gone against what he had learned in the Pat Fay Method class? This homeowner was inexperienced and unsophisticated when it came to home construction. I have learned from working with homeowner’s on their home construction projects that they have a need to have a contractor hold their hand and take care of them.
The big problem with this though is that there are not many contractors in America that want to hold the hand of the homeowner. Like all businessmen, what they want is to make as much profit as they possibly can. Chapter 16 (Lessons Learned from Homeowners) in the Pat Fay Method book discusses this subject in greater detail.
The best contract form the American homeowner can use is the fixed price contract. This is where the homeowner agrees to pay a fixed price for the contractor performing a fixed scope of work completed in a certain period of time. The Pat Fay Method book has an entire chapter (Chapter 9) dedicated to contract documents. Most homeowners don’t realize that they have a right to modify the contract to be sure their requirements are included. After all, the contract is a document for two parties. The contractor brings expertise in some construction Skill and the homeowner provides money.
The Pat Fay Method is a professional construction management book written for the homeowner. If you are a homeowner that does not want the above scenario to befall you then invest $40 and read the Pat Fay Method. After all the homeowner is either going to follow the Pat Fay Method or the contractor method. Available at www.patfay.com or email patfayinc@aol.com.
Contractor Listings in LA
The Terrors of the Time and Material Contract in Home Construction
There is a form of contracting prevalent in the home construction world that is very dangerous to the American homeowner. It is called the time and material contract. In construction slang it is known as “T & M.” This contract is the cause of run away costs on seemingly inexpensive home construction projects. The wise homeowner will be very, very wary of signing a time and material contract with any home construction contractor.
The basics of the time and material contract are quite simple. The contractor charges the homeowner for the actual time that all workers spend on the homeowner’s project plus all the costs of materials. The contractor’s profit is built into the hourly rate charged to the homeowner by the contractor for all of his workers. Sometimes a wily contractor will have the audacity to add a percentage as their fee or extra profit to the contract.
The T & M contract is almost always suggested by a contractor to an inexperienced homeowner. They will say that the homeowner’s job is just too complicated for a fixed price bid and the best way to do this project is by time and material. It always sounds so reasonable that the homeowner has no reason to believe that things will not go well on their project.
The time and material contract has been around for decades. It became very popular in the late 1970’s and 1980’s on industrial construction projects around the globe. The time and material contract was used on large scale industrial projects where it was thought that the teaming of the owners and the owner’s contractor would result in a win-win situation for both the contractor and the owner. The contractor would have limited risk and the owner would have a project built for about the estimated price.
The time and material contract on these industrial projects took the form of the cost plus fixed fee contract. The contractor was paid for all the hours of all their workers plus the cost of all the materials. The two were added up to give the total construction cost. Then the fixed fee percentage was multiplied times the total construction cost and then added to the whole. The typical fixed fee was in the 2% to 10% range.
Sounds reasonable doesn’t it? It wasn’t though. The catch was whether or not the owner had hired a contractor willing to take a reasonable profit on a project rather than a huge profit at the owner’s expense. It turned out that there were not too many industrial contractors that could resist the lure of easy money at the expense of the owner.
What actually happened is that the contractors used every means at their disposal to drive the hours of labor and material up as high as they possibly could so that the fee would also be higher. As it turned out the construction costs grew much higher. So high that owner’s around the world were almost bankrupted by this form of the T & M contract.
The time and material contract destroyed the work ethic in hard working construction workers by rewarding slowness and laziness. This behavior was condoned and even encouraged by the managers of the construction companies. The reason for this was because the contractor made more money the longer the project took to complete.
The T & M contract also encouraged the use of unnecessarily expensive materials in an effort to drive up the cost. When two equally qualified materials could be used for the construction the most expensive alternative would always be selected because it drove up the construction cost and thereby increased the contractor’s fee (profit).
The time and material contract has largely disappeared from the Industrial Construction world because of its terribly abusive practices and its inherent ability to destroy any construction budget. However, I am unhappy to report that it is alive and well in the home remodel and new home construction world in America today!
The American homeowner needs to stay far away from the T & M contract even if a contractor says it is the best way to work their project. In actuality it is only rarely beneficial to the homeowner but almost always extremely financially rewarding to the contractor. The time and material contract is a recipe for disaster for the typical homeowner inexperienced in home construction management.
How does this relate to the homeowner’s small remodel or new construction project? It relates very well because many contractors convince the inexperienced homeowner (in regards to construction) that it would be really difficult or near impossible to give them a fixed price for their project. They market the following kind of statement, “Your project is too complicated to give you a fixed price. However, I can promise you that if we do your project on a time and material basis your costs will be much lower.” It sounds good but the truth is actually the opposite.
This is because the underlying negative aspects of the T & M contract remain the same for the homeowner as they were on the industrial construction projects. They drive labor and material costs up as high as possible. An unfortunate student of mine found this out the hard way.
I received a phone call in early 2007 from one of my former students (from my class on how to be your own general contractor) whose project was in trouble. He had taken my class earlier when the Pat Fay Method book was not yet completed. Unfortunately his project was in trouble and he needed some help.
He wouldn’t give me any details over the phone but asked if I would come visit him at his house that was presently being remodeled. I arrived at 10 o’clock in the morning and the first thing I saw upon arriving was two framing carpenters taking a smoke break up on the scaffolding.
They were having a great time catching up with each other, laughing and carrying on. I couldn’t help but laugh to myself because it was obvious that these men were working on a time and material contract. The reason I knew this is because carpenters on a fixed price contract would have been working with a cigarette stuck in their teeth pounding away with their hammers or nail guns.
After we sat down in the owner’s kitchen I asked why he had signed a T&M contract when I had stressed in the class that it is the worst form of home construction contracting. At first he didn’t answer this question but immediately complained to me about how often they took breaks to smoke, to eat, to talk on their cell phones, and to discuss what they were doing. Some days there would be two workers and other days there would be three to four. He stated that the workers hardly spent any time working at all and that the project just barely progressed. He was so frustrated he was ready to explode.
I let him vent for awhile and when he had gotten it off his chest I repeated the question: why did you sign a T&M contract? His answer was classic. “I signed a T&M contract because the contractor told me my job was too complicated for a fixed price contract. He said that it was the best way to proceed on my project.”
It really was sad for two reasons. One, his project was a simple 960 SF addition to his two story house. One side was being pushed out 8’x 30’ and the front by 12’ x 20’. The scope of work was to add a new foundation, frame the walls, demo the existing, extend the floors, change the roof and add gutters. It also included new windows, new interior doors & walls with the standard electrical, lighting and flooring in the 960 SF remodel. That was it! There wasn’t even any plumbing as no bathroom was added and the kitchen was on the end of the house that was not being remodeled.
The second reason it was sad was because the contractor had two to four men working on the foundation and framing for SEVEN MONTHS! The foundation and framing should have taken no more than 6 weeks. To add insult to injury the framing wasn’t even complete! The contractor was completely milking the project at the homeowner’s expense.
After I read the owner’s drawings of his project, did some calculations, I estimated that this project should cost about $80 per square foot. This is less than the $100/SF that I normally tell homeowners because on this project there was no plumbing work. $80/SF x 960 SF is equal to $76,800. Add a few thousand for contingency and the project budget is $80,000.
This homeowner had already paid the contractor $135,000. He also had given the contractor a $40,000 down payment at the time the contract was signed that was not part of the $135,000. The total amount of money spent by this homeowner was $175,000! Besides the incomplete framing, the homeowner still had to pay for the installation of the roofing, windows, and all interior work. This unfortunate homeowner had already paid out twice what the project should have cost and the framing phase wasn’t even complete. The way it was going he was going to be lucky to finish up for a total cost of $230,000. That would be $150,000 more than the entire project should have cost.
Also, the amount of stress this poor homeowner was experiencing was terrible. He told me he would lay awake all night, he couldn’t eat, and he was irritable to his wife. All because he believed the following what the contractor said was the correct thing to do. In the Pat Fay Method we call that unwise. Unfortunately this scenario plays itself out all across America in every state in the country. This doesn’t just happen to a few people; this happens to hundreds of thousands of people every year throughout America!
I offered to walk outside with the homeowner and fire the contractor right then and there. I promised to stay with him until the workers had cleared their tools and themselves from the site. The homeowner declined my offer because “I can’t fire them because they still have my $40,000 down payment”.
I had taught this homeowner in my class not to pay a large down payment at the time the contract is signed. I had also stressed that no matter what to never sign a T & M contract. (The only exception to this rule is for limited demolition work but the homeowner protects themselves by building in a not to exceed maximum cost to the contract.)
Why had this homeowner gone against what he had learned in the Pat Fay Method class? This homeowner was inexperienced and unsophisticated when it came to home construction. I have learned from working with homeowner’s on their home construction projects that they have a need to have a contractor hold their hand and take care of them.
The big problem with this though is that there are not many contractors in America that want to hold the hand of the homeowner. Like all businessmen, what they want is to make as much profit as they possibly can. Chapter 16 (Lessons Learned from Homeowners) in the Pat Fay Method book discusses this subject in greater detail.
The best contract form the American homeowner can use is the fixed price contract. This is where the homeowner agrees to pay a fixed price for the contractor performing a fixed scope of work completed in a certain period of time. The Pat Fay Method book has an entire chapter (Chapter 9) dedicated to contract documents. Most homeowners don’t realize that they have a right to modify the contract to be sure their requirements are included. After all, the contract is a document for two parties. The contractor brings expertise in some construction Skill and the homeowner provides money.
The Pat Fay Method is a professional construction management book written for the homeowner. If you are a homeowner that does not want the above scenario to befall you then invest $40 and read the Pat Fay Method. After all the homeowner is either going to follow the Pat Fay Method or the contractor method. Available at www.patfay.com or email patfayinc@aol.com.
Contractor Listings in LA
Bathroom Renovation Tips: Choosing Faucets for Vanities-Shower-Tub
August 31, 2008
Julia Ritzenthaler asked:
One of the most important decisions in a bathroom remodel project is choosing the plumbing fixtures. There are so many options today; you need to consider a few key details to make an educated decision. What fixtures are you shopping for? A typical bathroom remodel includes vanity faucets, tub faucets, and shower faucets. Begin by making a list of the faucets you are shopping for.
The next item to decide is your budget. Plumbing fixtures can vary widely in price, so setting a budget is an important first step. You should not use price as your only factor in choosing fixtures, as the quality of fixtures also varies widely. You definitely get what you pay for when it comes to plumbing fixtures.
What is the style of your bathroom? Is it traditional or contemporary? Traditional style faucets include the standard 3 hole, 2 handle gooseneck, while a contemporary look would be something like the Purist line from Kohler - simple and sleek.
What finish matches your style? Here are the most popular finishes:
- Chrome: Chrome is the least expensive and is the most easily matched across manufacturers. This simply means that you are generally safe buying a chrome finish faucet from Moen and one from Kohler to use in the same bathroom and you should not notice the difference in finish color.
- Polished Brass
- Antique Brass
- Pewter
- Brushed or Satin Nickel
- Oil Rubbed Bronze: This is the most expensive finish; if you choose this finish, consider a high quality brand name, as the oil rubbed finish tends to rub off depending on the amount of use.
Quality issues to consider include:
- The fixture needs to be manufactured from metal, no plastic parts.
- The fixture should be heavy, significant of solid metal.
- The fixture should have washer less valves and/or ceramic valves.
- Does the fixture come with a warranty?
The best way to check quality is to test display models at your local hardware store. You can immediately feel the difference between a fixture that is $50 and one that is $200. This will help you determine what will fit your needs based on price and use.
If choosing a tub faucet, make sure there is ample flow rate to fill a tub in a reasonable amount of time. Some shower faucets take special plumbing requirements such as larger water lines and specific plumbing techniques for proper operations. If choosing a large shower head, you need to consider if the fixture will require a higher flow rate on the valve and larger diameter plumbing for proper operation. Also, be sure to have ample support for long stem shower heads.
Contractor Listings in LA
One of the most important decisions in a bathroom remodel project is choosing the plumbing fixtures. There are so many options today; you need to consider a few key details to make an educated decision. What fixtures are you shopping for? A typical bathroom remodel includes vanity faucets, tub faucets, and shower faucets. Begin by making a list of the faucets you are shopping for.
The next item to decide is your budget. Plumbing fixtures can vary widely in price, so setting a budget is an important first step. You should not use price as your only factor in choosing fixtures, as the quality of fixtures also varies widely. You definitely get what you pay for when it comes to plumbing fixtures.
What is the style of your bathroom? Is it traditional or contemporary? Traditional style faucets include the standard 3 hole, 2 handle gooseneck, while a contemporary look would be something like the Purist line from Kohler - simple and sleek.
What finish matches your style? Here are the most popular finishes:
- Chrome: Chrome is the least expensive and is the most easily matched across manufacturers. This simply means that you are generally safe buying a chrome finish faucet from Moen and one from Kohler to use in the same bathroom and you should not notice the difference in finish color.
- Polished Brass
- Antique Brass
- Pewter
- Brushed or Satin Nickel
- Oil Rubbed Bronze: This is the most expensive finish; if you choose this finish, consider a high quality brand name, as the oil rubbed finish tends to rub off depending on the amount of use.
Quality issues to consider include:
- The fixture needs to be manufactured from metal, no plastic parts.
- The fixture should be heavy, significant of solid metal.
- The fixture should have washer less valves and/or ceramic valves.
- Does the fixture come with a warranty?
The best way to check quality is to test display models at your local hardware store. You can immediately feel the difference between a fixture that is $50 and one that is $200. This will help you determine what will fit your needs based on price and use.
If choosing a tub faucet, make sure there is ample flow rate to fill a tub in a reasonable amount of time. Some shower faucets take special plumbing requirements such as larger water lines and specific plumbing techniques for proper operations. If choosing a large shower head, you need to consider if the fixture will require a higher flow rate on the valve and larger diameter plumbing for proper operation. Also, be sure to have ample support for long stem shower heads.
Contractor Listings in LA
Replacing a Bathroom Sink
August 30, 2008
Bathgems asked:
TOOLS
• Tape measure
• Pipe wrench
• Pry bar
• Utility knife
• Adjustable wrench
• Screwdriver
Materials
• Replacement Sink
• Replacement Faucet
• Sink Trap
• Tail piece
• Supply lines
• Silicone caulk or plumber’s putty
Teflon® tape
Understanding the sink & plumbing fixtures.
• This is a general schematic of a sink’s internal plumbing.
• Water is supplied through house plumbing, into the flexible tubes, and into the sink, where it is controlled by the faucet.
• Note: These shutoff valves should be turned off prior to performing any service on the sink!
• Note: If you do not have shutoff valves supplying your sink, you will have to shut off the entire supply to the bathroom. This may involve a specific branch of the building’s plumbing, or it may involve the entire system. If you are unsure about this, seek advice from a knowledgeable source.
• You will know if the supply is shut off to the sink, when the faucets are turned to the “On” position. (Residual water may drain out of the faucet, but not water under any pressure.)
• The sink Trap will also need to be removed, and although this piece is not under pressure, there will be a small amount of water, which remains in this tube at all times (to prevent sewer gases from escaping into the bathroom area). Be prepared with a bucket to catch this water, when you disconnect this tube.
• Note: Disconnecting the sink is mainly a one-person job, although most sinks are made of heavy materials, and two people may be needed when physically removing the sink from the wall.
*(This is a Generalized image; specific fixtures may not have identical features.)
STEP 1 -Disconnecting the Existing Sink from the water supply.
• After closing the shutoff valves and/or the bathroom water supply, take the adjustable wrench, and loosen the flexible hoses, where they meet the shutoff valves.
• This requires a tight fit of the adjustable wrench, on the nut connected to the valve, and turning the nut to the left.
After both flexible tubes are disconnected from the shutoff valves, we can move on to
STEP 2 - Disconnecting the Existing Sink Drain.
• Removing the sink drain is a simple procedure. (This will [most likely] require the use of the pipe wrench, but in some cases, the connecting ring may be able to be loosened by hand.)
• If you require the pipe wrench to disconnect the trap, start with the vertical drain tube connectors first.
• The 2nd connector rings next.
• REMEMBER: There will be a small amount of water remaining in this tube, so be prepared.
Leave the drain tube, which enters the wall in place, you will be re-utilizing this when connecting the new sink.
Renewable Energy Videos
TOOLS
• Tape measure
• Pipe wrench
• Pry bar
• Utility knife
• Adjustable wrench
• Screwdriver
Materials
• Replacement Sink
• Replacement Faucet
• Sink Trap
• Tail piece
• Supply lines
• Silicone caulk or plumber’s putty
Teflon® tape
Understanding the sink & plumbing fixtures.
• This is a general schematic of a sink’s internal plumbing.
• Water is supplied through house plumbing, into the flexible tubes, and into the sink, where it is controlled by the faucet.
• Note: These shutoff valves should be turned off prior to performing any service on the sink!
• Note: If you do not have shutoff valves supplying your sink, you will have to shut off the entire supply to the bathroom. This may involve a specific branch of the building’s plumbing, or it may involve the entire system. If you are unsure about this, seek advice from a knowledgeable source.
• You will know if the supply is shut off to the sink, when the faucets are turned to the “On” position. (Residual water may drain out of the faucet, but not water under any pressure.)
• The sink Trap will also need to be removed, and although this piece is not under pressure, there will be a small amount of water, which remains in this tube at all times (to prevent sewer gases from escaping into the bathroom area). Be prepared with a bucket to catch this water, when you disconnect this tube.
• Note: Disconnecting the sink is mainly a one-person job, although most sinks are made of heavy materials, and two people may be needed when physically removing the sink from the wall.
*(This is a Generalized image; specific fixtures may not have identical features.)
STEP 1 -Disconnecting the Existing Sink from the water supply.
• After closing the shutoff valves and/or the bathroom water supply, take the adjustable wrench, and loosen the flexible hoses, where they meet the shutoff valves.
• This requires a tight fit of the adjustable wrench, on the nut connected to the valve, and turning the nut to the left.
After both flexible tubes are disconnected from the shutoff valves, we can move on to
STEP 2 - Disconnecting the Existing Sink Drain.
• Removing the sink drain is a simple procedure. (This will [most likely] require the use of the pipe wrench, but in some cases, the connecting ring may be able to be loosened by hand.)
• If you require the pipe wrench to disconnect the trap, start with the vertical drain tube connectors first.
• The 2nd connector rings next.
• REMEMBER: There will be a small amount of water remaining in this tube, so be prepared.
Leave the drain tube, which enters the wall in place, you will be re-utilizing this when connecting the new sink.
Renewable Energy Videos
Plumbing Water Supply Systems Explained
August 23, 2008
Owen Walcher asked:
The source of water supply to a building depends on many factors, such as, location restrictions, your specific preference and expense factors etc. The water supplies can be from metered municipal water system, from wells, tapped springs or rivers, or even from rainwater storage.
However, irrespective of whatever the water supply is, the connection to the home is always at a single point. When the water supply is through metered municipal water system, the entire domestic water cycle is formed outside the internal distribution system. On the other hand, in all other cases, the entire cycle must be formed independently. The later water supply systems are popular in homes that are further from cities or other populated areas, where they cannot be connected with a municipal system. In this form of water supply, the piping system consists of various taps, fixtures, and appliances, while the drainage exits through the sewage drain system. Let us examine how does the internal distribution system work.
Taps, Fixtures and Appliances
Taps, fixtures, and appliances are very important components of a water supply system. They all are used in some form of water falls. Taps are used as water outlets, and they do not accompany any fixture. Fixtures include toilet, water closet, sink, washbasin, bathtub etc.
Fixtures do not require any additional source of power to use water. Appliances are specific devices for specific purposes, and they require an additional source of power to perform their function. Appliances may include washing machine, dishwasher, icemaker etc. The connection to these appliances work on the concept of a back flow prevention principle. These principles may include either or both the mechanical and physical principles.
This way, they all have their own functions to perform, while they also produce some form of waste or sewage. The sewage drain system is used to remove such waste.
Supply System for Cold Water
Cold water supply is nothing but an external water supply. However, cold water supply system can also use filter, water softener appliances, or any other fixture. The connection for the cold water system is done in such a way that other appliances could receive it through fixtures and taps. Such appliances include sinks, hot water heaters, faucets, bathtubs, showers etc.
Supply System for Hot Water
There are certain appliances that can be used to provide hot water, such as water heaters. Cold water supply system supplies a volume of water to such appliances, where they heat the water and provide hot water.
The hot water thus produced is then fed to various fixtures and taps so that the appliances that require hot water could receive it. The appliances that may require hot water include washing machine, sinks, bathtubs, showers etc.
Waste Water Drain System
The wastewater drain system is used to dispose the wastewater produced by various appliances. In this process, the wastewater is transferred through sewage drain system to the sewage removal system.
Wastewater drain system use piping of a larger diameter and some water traps. Moreover, this system is designed and installed in such a way that the toxic gases and other odors could be prevented from entering the living place.
Hence, here we see which components a water supply system uses and how do they work as a system.
Contractor Listings in LA
The source of water supply to a building depends on many factors, such as, location restrictions, your specific preference and expense factors etc. The water supplies can be from metered municipal water system, from wells, tapped springs or rivers, or even from rainwater storage.
However, irrespective of whatever the water supply is, the connection to the home is always at a single point. When the water supply is through metered municipal water system, the entire domestic water cycle is formed outside the internal distribution system. On the other hand, in all other cases, the entire cycle must be formed independently. The later water supply systems are popular in homes that are further from cities or other populated areas, where they cannot be connected with a municipal system. In this form of water supply, the piping system consists of various taps, fixtures, and appliances, while the drainage exits through the sewage drain system. Let us examine how does the internal distribution system work.
Taps, Fixtures and Appliances
Taps, fixtures, and appliances are very important components of a water supply system. They all are used in some form of water falls. Taps are used as water outlets, and they do not accompany any fixture. Fixtures include toilet, water closet, sink, washbasin, bathtub etc.
Fixtures do not require any additional source of power to use water. Appliances are specific devices for specific purposes, and they require an additional source of power to perform their function. Appliances may include washing machine, dishwasher, icemaker etc. The connection to these appliances work on the concept of a back flow prevention principle. These principles may include either or both the mechanical and physical principles.
This way, they all have their own functions to perform, while they also produce some form of waste or sewage. The sewage drain system is used to remove such waste.
Supply System for Cold Water
Cold water supply is nothing but an external water supply. However, cold water supply system can also use filter, water softener appliances, or any other fixture. The connection for the cold water system is done in such a way that other appliances could receive it through fixtures and taps. Such appliances include sinks, hot water heaters, faucets, bathtubs, showers etc.
Supply System for Hot Water
There are certain appliances that can be used to provide hot water, such as water heaters. Cold water supply system supplies a volume of water to such appliances, where they heat the water and provide hot water.
The hot water thus produced is then fed to various fixtures and taps so that the appliances that require hot water could receive it. The appliances that may require hot water include washing machine, sinks, bathtubs, showers etc.
Waste Water Drain System
The wastewater drain system is used to dispose the wastewater produced by various appliances. In this process, the wastewater is transferred through sewage drain system to the sewage removal system.
Wastewater drain system use piping of a larger diameter and some water traps. Moreover, this system is designed and installed in such a way that the toxic gases and other odors could be prevented from entering the living place.
Hence, here we see which components a water supply system uses and how do they work as a system.
Contractor Listings in LA
Pex Plumbing Valves
August 21, 2008
John Parker asked:
PEX Plumbing Valves include all the fittings and valves needed to make connections in a PEX plumbing system. These include SSC PEX Fittings (Clamp PEX Fittings) and Expansion Style PEX Fittings(ProPEX Fittings). To make SSC Connections, SSC PEX Tool is needed, whereas to make ProPEX connections a Wirsbo Expander tool is required.
ProPEX chrome-plated PEX Stop Valves come in either straight or angle stop configurations. These PEX stop valves are used for point-of-use shut-off at the fixture. Both valves connect 1/2″ PEX Tubing to 3/8″ O.D. Risers. Compression inserts and rings for the 3/8″ riser connections are included with the valves. ProPEX Tool is required to make the 1/2″ ProPEX connections. ProPEX Rings are usually purchased separately.
ProPEX Ball Valve (brass) main features include: in-line, shut-off valve for 3/8″, 1/2″, and 3/4″ PEX Tubing. ProPEX Angle Ball Valve (brass) features are: a quarter-turn shut-off valve for 1/2″ PEX Tubing. ProPEX Tool is required. ProPEX Rings are purchased separately as well.
PEX Plumbing is the future of the plumbing industry. PEX Plumbing involves PEX tubing, PEX fittings, PEX manifolds or Plumbing Manifolds, and the PEX Tools that accompany these parts.
Renewable Energy Videos
PEX Plumbing Valves include all the fittings and valves needed to make connections in a PEX plumbing system. These include SSC PEX Fittings (Clamp PEX Fittings) and Expansion Style PEX Fittings(ProPEX Fittings). To make SSC Connections, SSC PEX Tool is needed, whereas to make ProPEX connections a Wirsbo Expander tool is required.
ProPEX chrome-plated PEX Stop Valves come in either straight or angle stop configurations. These PEX stop valves are used for point-of-use shut-off at the fixture. Both valves connect 1/2″ PEX Tubing to 3/8″ O.D. Risers. Compression inserts and rings for the 3/8″ riser connections are included with the valves. ProPEX Tool is required to make the 1/2″ ProPEX connections. ProPEX Rings are usually purchased separately.
ProPEX Ball Valve (brass) main features include: in-line, shut-off valve for 3/8″, 1/2″, and 3/4″ PEX Tubing. ProPEX Angle Ball Valve (brass) features are: a quarter-turn shut-off valve for 1/2″ PEX Tubing. ProPEX Tool is required. ProPEX Rings are purchased separately as well.
PEX Plumbing is the future of the plumbing industry. PEX Plumbing involves PEX tubing, PEX fittings, PEX manifolds or Plumbing Manifolds, and the PEX Tools that accompany these parts.
Renewable Energy Videos
Gold Plated Fixtures
August 2, 2008
Ed Terran asked:
When you think of light switches, and taps maybe you do not think of gold but it is a highly decorative item in homes today. Gold plating can add to a room’s décor. There are different styles of ceiling fans and recessed lighting that have all included gold plating for the accents. So why should a light switch be any different?
Many people have used the gold plated plumbing fixtures in their bathrooms. This style can include the shower bars, enclosures, faucets, and accessories for the bathroom all in one matching gold plated look. When you use the same style throughout the bathroom it pulls the look together instead of creating a haphazard look with too man different styles in one room.
Even the plumbing can be gold plated. If you are going for an elegant look and have a claw foot bathtub, the piping, instead of being concealed can stand out with the great look of gold plating. When this is matched with your shower riser in the same look you will have a really elegant looking bathroom.
Let us not forget the sink. When you decide to go with gold for your bathroom the look can be carried right to the sink by adding faucets with the look of gold. The accessories for the sink can match as well for the all around wonderful style that this adds to your bathroom.
When adding the gold touch to your bathroom do not forget the toilet and bidet. They can also have the look of gold by using the gold plated fixtures. This will add to the look you already have started. The best thing to do when adding it to all your bathroom fixtures make sure to get all the same color gold. There is also an antique gold plate that looks great. But you do not want to mix the two. This will subtract from the look you are trying to achieve rather than enhance it.
This is a good look for the kitchen as well and carries the look through to the two most essential areas of the home. Add the gold light switches to your kitchen lights. The faucets, pipes, and even lighting accessories can be much neater looking when they all match. This never goes out of style, because it has one of its own which is timeless.
The really wonderful thing that is going on with style for kitchens and bathrooms is the use of exposed pipes. These pipes used to be the parts that everyone wanted hidden but not anymore. They have become a style that is used in high end homes as well as the moderate income homes. Everyone wants the pipes exposed.
If you are thinking of building a new home or remodeling your existing one, you cannot go wrong with this style. If done correctly, making sure that all the accessories, switches, pipes, and anything else that you want to replace with the gold plated look, this can be one awesome look.
Contractor Listings in LA
When you think of light switches, and taps maybe you do not think of gold but it is a highly decorative item in homes today. Gold plating can add to a room’s décor. There are different styles of ceiling fans and recessed lighting that have all included gold plating for the accents. So why should a light switch be any different?
Many people have used the gold plated plumbing fixtures in their bathrooms. This style can include the shower bars, enclosures, faucets, and accessories for the bathroom all in one matching gold plated look. When you use the same style throughout the bathroom it pulls the look together instead of creating a haphazard look with too man different styles in one room.
Even the plumbing can be gold plated. If you are going for an elegant look and have a claw foot bathtub, the piping, instead of being concealed can stand out with the great look of gold plating. When this is matched with your shower riser in the same look you will have a really elegant looking bathroom.
Let us not forget the sink. When you decide to go with gold for your bathroom the look can be carried right to the sink by adding faucets with the look of gold. The accessories for the sink can match as well for the all around wonderful style that this adds to your bathroom.
When adding the gold touch to your bathroom do not forget the toilet and bidet. They can also have the look of gold by using the gold plated fixtures. This will add to the look you already have started. The best thing to do when adding it to all your bathroom fixtures make sure to get all the same color gold. There is also an antique gold plate that looks great. But you do not want to mix the two. This will subtract from the look you are trying to achieve rather than enhance it.
This is a good look for the kitchen as well and carries the look through to the two most essential areas of the home. Add the gold light switches to your kitchen lights. The faucets, pipes, and even lighting accessories can be much neater looking when they all match. This never goes out of style, because it has one of its own which is timeless.
The really wonderful thing that is going on with style for kitchens and bathrooms is the use of exposed pipes. These pipes used to be the parts that everyone wanted hidden but not anymore. They have become a style that is used in high end homes as well as the moderate income homes. Everyone wants the pipes exposed.
If you are thinking of building a new home or remodeling your existing one, you cannot go wrong with this style. If done correctly, making sure that all the accessories, switches, pipes, and anything else that you want to replace with the gold plated look, this can be one awesome look.
Contractor Listings in LA
These are Some of the Effects of Iron Bacteria in Drinking Water
July 16, 2008
Muna wa Wanjiru asked:
Iron bacteria are said to be a natural part of our surrounding area in most parts of the world. These are the microorganisms that unite the manganese or the dissolved iron with the oxygen for forming the rust-colored deposits. The above process causes the bacteria form producing a brown slime that we usually see on the pipes, well screens and the plumbing fixtures.
Iron bacteria acquire the energy needed to live and multiply by the oxidation of dissolved ferrous iron, aluminum or manganese. The ferric oxide thus formed in the process looks like a brown gelatinous slime and it is insoluble in nature. This can lave stains on the plumbing fixtures, utensils or clothes washed with that water. This may result in internal corrosion of the pipes and the fixtures through which the water flows.
Effects of iron bacteria in drinking water:
* You can view the iron bacteria in the surface waters as a mass of brown slime at the bottom of the stream or lakes or as an oily luster on the water surface.
* Iron bacteria present in the well water cause odors and the chances of the sulfur bacteria infestation are increased.
* The plumbing equipment gets corroded and the well yields are reduced remarkably due to the clogging of the pipes and the screens.
There are some clues or evidences that will help you to detect if you have the problem of iron bacteria in the water. The water has a shade of red, orange or yellow colors. It gives out an odor similar to that of cucumber, fuel oil or sewage. You will also see slimy masses appearing on the inner walls of your toilet tank.
Prevention of the iron bacteria:
Iron bacteria are very difficult to treat once they appear in your well systems. So, it is always advisable to prevent the problems that may be caused due to the presence of the iron bacteria.
* Prevention of iron bacteria for the well drillers includes disinfecting everything with a chlorine solution. Do not introduce carbon or other organics during the prevention process as they nourish the iron bacteria. Disinfect the different tools, pipes, pumps, water used in drilling and the gravel pack material. The water used in the tank should be chlorinated water.
* Another method of preventing the occurrence of iron bacteria for the new owners is to be very alert to see the appearance the signs of iron bacteria. If the pump installer and the well driller are characterized with extreme care to keep the new well clean, the problems aroused by then iron bacteria can be avoided.
* Chlorination is the best way for preventing the iron bacteria from occurring again and again. The wells should be cleaned periodically by shock chlorination or also a chlorination unit can be installed.
Iron bacteria is a non-disease producing bacteria that do not cause any health disorders in the people but they only have some unpleasant effects such as undesirable taste and odor in the water. Iron bacteria need water for their growth and multiplication which may probably later on lead to expensive treatments. So, it is better to prevent its occurrence.
Contractor Listings in LA
Iron bacteria are said to be a natural part of our surrounding area in most parts of the world. These are the microorganisms that unite the manganese or the dissolved iron with the oxygen for forming the rust-colored deposits. The above process causes the bacteria form producing a brown slime that we usually see on the pipes, well screens and the plumbing fixtures.
Iron bacteria acquire the energy needed to live and multiply by the oxidation of dissolved ferrous iron, aluminum or manganese. The ferric oxide thus formed in the process looks like a brown gelatinous slime and it is insoluble in nature. This can lave stains on the plumbing fixtures, utensils or clothes washed with that water. This may result in internal corrosion of the pipes and the fixtures through which the water flows.
Effects of iron bacteria in drinking water:
* You can view the iron bacteria in the surface waters as a mass of brown slime at the bottom of the stream or lakes or as an oily luster on the water surface.
* Iron bacteria present in the well water cause odors and the chances of the sulfur bacteria infestation are increased.
* The plumbing equipment gets corroded and the well yields are reduced remarkably due to the clogging of the pipes and the screens.
There are some clues or evidences that will help you to detect if you have the problem of iron bacteria in the water. The water has a shade of red, orange or yellow colors. It gives out an odor similar to that of cucumber, fuel oil or sewage. You will also see slimy masses appearing on the inner walls of your toilet tank.
Prevention of the iron bacteria:
Iron bacteria are very difficult to treat once they appear in your well systems. So, it is always advisable to prevent the problems that may be caused due to the presence of the iron bacteria.
* Prevention of iron bacteria for the well drillers includes disinfecting everything with a chlorine solution. Do not introduce carbon or other organics during the prevention process as they nourish the iron bacteria. Disinfect the different tools, pipes, pumps, water used in drilling and the gravel pack material. The water used in the tank should be chlorinated water.
* Another method of preventing the occurrence of iron bacteria for the new owners is to be very alert to see the appearance the signs of iron bacteria. If the pump installer and the well driller are characterized with extreme care to keep the new well clean, the problems aroused by then iron bacteria can be avoided.
* Chlorination is the best way for preventing the iron bacteria from occurring again and again. The wells should be cleaned periodically by shock chlorination or also a chlorination unit can be installed.
Iron bacteria is a non-disease producing bacteria that do not cause any health disorders in the people but they only have some unpleasant effects such as undesirable taste and odor in the water. Iron bacteria need water for their growth and multiplication which may probably later on lead to expensive treatments. So, it is better to prevent its occurrence.
Contractor Listings in LA
Your Home Improvement Resolution
July 6, 2008
Chris Plumb asked:
Millions of people every year will make a new year resolution and millions of people will not keep to them, I know, I am one of them. This is mainly because they are not realistic, too many are made or they’re not thought through enough. However if home improvement has been one of them we have some good tips to help keep you on the road to resolution.
Decide what needs to be done
Prioritise what need to be done
Set yourself goals to achieve what needs to be done
In deciding what needs to be done you should try and take a subjective look at your home, a good way to do this is to take a walk around in the mindset of a prospective buyer, you will probably be shocked to see what is in need of improvement. Get a piece of paper and a pencil and walk through your home room by room.
Starting from the entrance to your home, be it a porch or hallway. Is it bright and welcoming, or dark and uninviting? Using softer and lighter shades of colour on the walls can make a dramatic improvement to how people first perceive your home. This can also be achieved of letting in more natural light, which is not always possible but can be remedied by adding more or brighter lighting fixtures.
The next logical step would be your Living Room, this is where you most need to feel relaxed and restful. So it is important that all the walls, furnishings, curtains and flooring be coordinated and harmonise with each other. Neutral tones on the walls are often used as a safe colour to achieve this effect and are easier to contrast with your other features. If you find your sofa is looking tired and worn, fitting made to measure sofa covers are a cheaper alternative to buying a new sofa.
Dinging Rooms are going to a big design essential for 2008 and visual indigestion will definitely not improve your family’s appetite. Ever wondered why red is such a popular colour for restaurants and dining rooms? It’s because it stimulates the appetite. It’s also an energising colour and therefore a good backdrop for social situations. However, choose the shade carefully - you want to create warmth rather than an oppressive, angry atmosphere.
Now to your Kitchen, the most important factor of this room is hygiene. If there are any dirty marks damage to work surfaces or cupboards then the impression may not be very tasteful. The main idea of improvement to this room is make it as functional and pleasant to be in.
You may not think it but it can be quite simple and relatively cheap to spruce up you Bathroom. Just by replacing your taps, toilet seats, shower curtain/door etc. with new or modern fittings can make a real difference. Look at the flooring, we are becoming more European in our tastes and they regard carpet as unhygienic. Changing to cork, bamboo or ceramic tiles will give your bathroom a fresh, clean and modern look. Coloured suites are also out of fashion. Look out for offers at the DIY stores or on the Internet and consider replacement with plain white.
And finally your Boudoir. In the bedroom the obvious focal point should be your bed and dressed to command attention, this can be done in a number of fashions such as using bedspreads and scatter cushions. Colours again are important in creating the right atmosphere and reflect the personality of whoever this room is intended. You should take you time here to decide how you can create that ultimate feeling for yourself.
Renewable Energy Videos
Millions of people every year will make a new year resolution and millions of people will not keep to them, I know, I am one of them. This is mainly because they are not realistic, too many are made or they’re not thought through enough. However if home improvement has been one of them we have some good tips to help keep you on the road to resolution.
Decide what needs to be done
Prioritise what need to be done
Set yourself goals to achieve what needs to be done
In deciding what needs to be done you should try and take a subjective look at your home, a good way to do this is to take a walk around in the mindset of a prospective buyer, you will probably be shocked to see what is in need of improvement. Get a piece of paper and a pencil and walk through your home room by room.
Starting from the entrance to your home, be it a porch or hallway. Is it bright and welcoming, or dark and uninviting? Using softer and lighter shades of colour on the walls can make a dramatic improvement to how people first perceive your home. This can also be achieved of letting in more natural light, which is not always possible but can be remedied by adding more or brighter lighting fixtures.
The next logical step would be your Living Room, this is where you most need to feel relaxed and restful. So it is important that all the walls, furnishings, curtains and flooring be coordinated and harmonise with each other. Neutral tones on the walls are often used as a safe colour to achieve this effect and are easier to contrast with your other features. If you find your sofa is looking tired and worn, fitting made to measure sofa covers are a cheaper alternative to buying a new sofa.
Dinging Rooms are going to a big design essential for 2008 and visual indigestion will definitely not improve your family’s appetite. Ever wondered why red is such a popular colour for restaurants and dining rooms? It’s because it stimulates the appetite. It’s also an energising colour and therefore a good backdrop for social situations. However, choose the shade carefully - you want to create warmth rather than an oppressive, angry atmosphere.
Now to your Kitchen, the most important factor of this room is hygiene. If there are any dirty marks damage to work surfaces or cupboards then the impression may not be very tasteful. The main idea of improvement to this room is make it as functional and pleasant to be in.
You may not think it but it can be quite simple and relatively cheap to spruce up you Bathroom. Just by replacing your taps, toilet seats, shower curtain/door etc. with new or modern fittings can make a real difference. Look at the flooring, we are becoming more European in our tastes and they regard carpet as unhygienic. Changing to cork, bamboo or ceramic tiles will give your bathroom a fresh, clean and modern look. Coloured suites are also out of fashion. Look out for offers at the DIY stores or on the Internet and consider replacement with plain white.
And finally your Boudoir. In the bedroom the obvious focal point should be your bed and dressed to command attention, this can be done in a number of fashions such as using bedspreads and scatter cushions. Colours again are important in creating the right atmosphere and reflect the personality of whoever this room is intended. You should take you time here to decide how you can create that ultimate feeling for yourself.
Renewable Energy Videos
